Finding Your Perfect Cage
One of the topics I almost NEVER get asked about, yet the one that most people get wrong in raising rats, is what type of enclosure is suitable for my new rats?
Most adopters think they have this question covered. They head off to their local pet store and they go to the small pet section. There, they may see an entire aisle devoted to cages. There are "hamster" cages and "bird" cages and "rabbit" cages and "ferret" cages and... ta-dah! "Rat" cages! Just what they were looking for, right? WRONG!
The sad truth is the pet industry is often built on more hype than help. Take hamster and mouse cages, for example. You can go to most any store and find a Critter Trail cage stating it is the perfect mansion for your little hammy. In truth, the cage would barely be passing for a small mouse. The only way for a critter trail to be a suitable cage for a small pet is if you connected about 4-5 together, and by then you could have paid for a cage of much higher quality. So, why is the Critter Trail so popular? One word, marketing. They make them in lots of cute styles that look like rockets or castles and in bright colors that catch the eye. They are visually appealing and the packaging shows happy families and pets enjoying the critter trail, therefore it must be a great cage, right?
There is not a lot of research or thought that goes into habitats for pets. Companies will often focus on making them cheaply instead of well. A large section of pet owners only want the least expensive cage that "will do" for the pet. The best cages don't have to come with a huge price tag, but a cage worth getting will usually cost you at least $100. Anything priced less than that will have some serious design flaw that could prove unsafe for your rat. Some issues with cages can be fixed, while others are a permanent disaster.
This page is not going to promote any one cage type. There is still NOT a perfect cage for rats, in my opinion, on the market. There are some very specific guidelines that can help you sift through the myriad of choices when searching for a cage.
Most adopters think they have this question covered. They head off to their local pet store and they go to the small pet section. There, they may see an entire aisle devoted to cages. There are "hamster" cages and "bird" cages and "rabbit" cages and "ferret" cages and... ta-dah! "Rat" cages! Just what they were looking for, right? WRONG!
The sad truth is the pet industry is often built on more hype than help. Take hamster and mouse cages, for example. You can go to most any store and find a Critter Trail cage stating it is the perfect mansion for your little hammy. In truth, the cage would barely be passing for a small mouse. The only way for a critter trail to be a suitable cage for a small pet is if you connected about 4-5 together, and by then you could have paid for a cage of much higher quality. So, why is the Critter Trail so popular? One word, marketing. They make them in lots of cute styles that look like rockets or castles and in bright colors that catch the eye. They are visually appealing and the packaging shows happy families and pets enjoying the critter trail, therefore it must be a great cage, right?
There is not a lot of research or thought that goes into habitats for pets. Companies will often focus on making them cheaply instead of well. A large section of pet owners only want the least expensive cage that "will do" for the pet. The best cages don't have to come with a huge price tag, but a cage worth getting will usually cost you at least $100. Anything priced less than that will have some serious design flaw that could prove unsafe for your rat. Some issues with cages can be fixed, while others are a permanent disaster.
This page is not going to promote any one cage type. There is still NOT a perfect cage for rats, in my opinion, on the market. There are some very specific guidelines that can help you sift through the myriad of choices when searching for a cage.
How Big is "Big Enough"?
The size of cage you need will be determined by the number of rats you have. These guidelines will be for the MINIMUM space needed to house your rats. The more space you give, the healthier and happier they will be. Even if your rats spend most of the daylight hours sleeping in a single spot and you wonder, "Why on earth do I need such a huge cage when they only use a few inches of it?!" There are a lot of reasons why space matters for health and wellness, which I will list throughout this article.
CUBIC FEET:
Some adopters ask about boys vs girls needing more or less space due to the size difference. Because females are more active than boys, that means they need a little more space for the activity level, but boys need more space due to size. Overall, the two things are a wash so the overall space needed regardless of gender is the same.
INDIVIDUAL DIMENSIONS:
Cages that are too narrow will not allow for rats to move without parts of themselves being in a curved posture at all times. This can lead to spine, tail, and joint problems as they age. If the cage does not have enough space for your rat to run around during the night hours, they can also become obese. This puts strain on the internal organs, especially the heart. Having a larger base will give your rat more room to roam and be active at night when you are sleeping (which is their natural active time.) After following up with many adopters of my own and also listening and asking questions online, I found that the popular Rat Manor cage from Petco was a huge recurring commonality when rats were experiencing issues with aggression or recurring illness. Most rats I had returned to me by adopters would be from homes that kept their rats in a Rat Manor or similarly sized cage. Homes with larger cages for their rats had a much lower likelihood of returning their rats or rehoming them after adoption. I do not accept the Rat Manor cage or similar sized or styled cages as proper living quarters for my rats.
CUBIC FEET:
- 6 cu ft for a pair of rats (2 rats) - rats should not be housed alone, so this would be your minimum cage size for any group of rats, even just ONE if it needs to be housed alone.
- Add 2 cu ft for each additional rat in your care beyond the first two.
Some adopters ask about boys vs girls needing more or less space due to the size difference. Because females are more active than boys, that means they need a little more space for the activity level, but boys need more space due to size. Overall, the two things are a wash so the overall space needed regardless of gender is the same.
INDIVIDUAL DIMENSIONS:
- The SHORTEST side of the base should be no less than 18".
- The cage should be LONGER than it is wide, 24" is a good minimum for length.
- The cage HEIGHT should be 24" or more, I prefer 30" or more for enough room to properly fill it with bedding and entertainment.
Cages that are too narrow will not allow for rats to move without parts of themselves being in a curved posture at all times. This can lead to spine, tail, and joint problems as they age. If the cage does not have enough space for your rat to run around during the night hours, they can also become obese. This puts strain on the internal organs, especially the heart. Having a larger base will give your rat more room to roam and be active at night when you are sleeping (which is their natural active time.) After following up with many adopters of my own and also listening and asking questions online, I found that the popular Rat Manor cage from Petco was a huge recurring commonality when rats were experiencing issues with aggression or recurring illness. Most rats I had returned to me by adopters would be from homes that kept their rats in a Rat Manor or similarly sized cage. Homes with larger cages for their rats had a much lower likelihood of returning their rats or rehoming them after adoption. I do not accept the Rat Manor cage or similar sized or styled cages as proper living quarters for my rats.
Is Taller Better?
Taller cages have the benefit of giving rats options for temperature control. Going higher in their cage will allow them to reach warmer air, while hanging out in the bottom gives access to cooler air. Therefore, having a cage with a lot of height can help your rats be more comfortable without you having to move their cage much based on the seasons or temporary weather spikes.
Some adopters may be tempted to get a cage that is tall and skinny to give as much cu ft to their rats without taking up floor or table space in their home. Tall skinny cages often do not have the mobility factor that I mentioned previously, however. They will usually require your rat to run a gauntlet of turns to reach an upper level and have many obstructions to climbing. As a young rat, obstacles are not much of an issue, but as your rat gets older, they may lose muscle strength in the legs, which will lead to falls. Falling in a tall cage is much more dangerous than in a shorter one. Modifications can be made when you have a tall cage with a larger base, however. Hammocks can be hung strategically as soft landing pads in case of falls. Rats that are known to have weak legs and trouble climbing should be kept in cages that are no more than 24" tall, and without ramps or ledges, to prevent serious injury.
So, taller is better, but only when you have a larger base to go with the added height. A cage that is 18"x18"x32" is a very poor cage, despite having a lot of height for your rats to explore. Rats also love to be able to run and bounce. That is hard to do if there is not enough space to take more than a step or two before hitting a wall.
Some adopters may be tempted to get a cage that is tall and skinny to give as much cu ft to their rats without taking up floor or table space in their home. Tall skinny cages often do not have the mobility factor that I mentioned previously, however. They will usually require your rat to run a gauntlet of turns to reach an upper level and have many obstructions to climbing. As a young rat, obstacles are not much of an issue, but as your rat gets older, they may lose muscle strength in the legs, which will lead to falls. Falling in a tall cage is much more dangerous than in a shorter one. Modifications can be made when you have a tall cage with a larger base, however. Hammocks can be hung strategically as soft landing pads in case of falls. Rats that are known to have weak legs and trouble climbing should be kept in cages that are no more than 24" tall, and without ramps or ledges, to prevent serious injury.
So, taller is better, but only when you have a larger base to go with the added height. A cage that is 18"x18"x32" is a very poor cage, despite having a lot of height for your rats to explore. Rats also love to be able to run and bounce. That is hard to do if there is not enough space to take more than a step or two before hitting a wall.
Why Bar Types Matter
Since bars keep your rats in their cage, they matter a lot when picking a cage. Some general rules of thumb for cage bars are:
BAR SPACING:
If you have a 1" bar spaced cage, you can attach 1cm wire mesh to the outside of the cage to keep the baby rats in, then remove when they are large enough to not escape.
- Prefer cages with more horizontal bars over those with more vertical ones. All cages will have bars that run in both directions for structural support. Horizontal bars will give more grip to your rats when they climb, lessening the chance of falls.
- Coated bars are better than non-coated metal bars. "Coated" means a protective hard ceramic or other pet safe layer, NOT just paint for decoration. Non-coated bars will absorb more smell and retain it even after washing. Bare metal also rusts faster than coated.
- Bars should be strong enough that you CANNOT bend them easily when pinching with your thumb and index finger. If you test the cage bars and they move with moderate pressure, your rat will likely also be able to bend them and make a space to escape.
- Bars with solid construction of sides are better than those that rely on some hooking mechanism to hold sides, roof, or base in place. Rats are smart and can often figure out any latch or hook system. These cages can be zip tied together to make them somewhat more escape proof, but having a more structurally sound cage to begin with saves you the time and worry.
BAR SPACING:
- 1/2": This is the optimal bar spacing for rats.
- 1": This bar spacing is fine for ADULT rats only. It is too small for baby rats up to 6 months old. All rats grow at varying rates, so the actual age when you could use this type of cage varies. Dwarf rats can NEVER be housed in 1" bar spacing as they never get to a large enough size.
If you have a 1" bar spaced cage, you can attach 1cm wire mesh to the outside of the cage to keep the baby rats in, then remove when they are large enough to not escape.
Other Things to Consider
Some final points for consideration when you have narrowed your choices down based on other criteria:
- Avoid plastic bases whenever possible. Rat like to chew and a plastic base can slowly (or sometimes quickly) get chewed right through for rat escapes.
- Ramps and shelves with solid construction are better than those made with wire mesh or bars. If you find a cage and this is the only flaw, ramp and shelf covers can be used to make the surfaces softer for walking. If covering ramps and shelves, a solid surface should be used, such as a piece of hard plastic or cardboard to create a hard surface under a fabric cover, not just fabric over the wire. Fabric over wire alone is like walking on pebbly ground with just socks on - ouch! Even if you find a cage with solid ramps, I recommend covering them to prevent slips or falls. The solid construction is better on the feet, but plastic or metal can be slippery (this is also why I recommend a blanket if bonding in a bathtub.)
- Will other items you want fit in your new cage? If you plan to put a 14" wheel in a cage, you may find that some have no space where such a thing will fit. A ramp is in the way on one side, a door blocks another space, and a shelf hangs too low on your final option. Hmmm... now what?! Take time to consider how you would like to set up your cage before buying.
- Avoid wood cages or accessories. These can look very nice and seem fun, but wood will absorb smell over time and is definitely chewable. A cage made of wood will begin to smell after a while and that smell won't clean out because of the absorbency of wood. The rats may find a weak point to chew their way to freedom as well, or simply eat many of the inner features, such as ramps, ledges, or hides. Wooden accessories have the same smell absorbing problem as a wooden cage. I recommend discarding wooden items after a month or so (depending on the number of rats you have.) Be careful buying anything colored as painted items may be toxic and dyes may bleed out onto your rats discoloring their fur or tail. Wood can be a fun addition, but it is not meant to last long.
- Don't forget to think about how you will decorate, interact, or clean the cage. For example, I prefer DCN cages because they have to doors on the front that open entirely to allow easy access to the entire cage. This cage works well for ME because I have limited mobility at times and cages with only one door, or smaller doors, were almost impossible for me to really decorate and interact with my rats the way I wanted to. Although this type works for me, it is by no means guaranteed to be the one that is best for YOU. There is nothing worse than having a cage you spend a lot of money on only to realize it really doesn't meet your needs. So, consider each cage and what you may want to do with or for your rats in relation to it before you buy.
What Cage Do YOU Recommend?
These are the cages I know to fit all the requirements above:
- Critter Nation Cage by Midwest: https://amzn.to/3DNXAxT This cage is good for adopters who want to potty train their rats and NOT have the entire bottom tray be full of litter. Liners or shelf covers are used with this cage, in most cases, to encourage rats to do their business in a designated litter box that is small and easy to clean. The CN cage is by far the sturdiest cage on the market. I've had some for 5 years with little to no wear, rust, or issues besides places where I've accidentally bent a bar while trying to wash them down. The huge doors make it really easy to spot clean and decorate the cages. The shelves are bigger than any other cage I've seen and have the ability to hang items from the bottom of them, too. I just really prefer this cage to all others for reliability and length of usable time.
- Prevue Cage: https://amzn.to/43SvBYo This cage is good for adopters who do not feel confident about litter box training their rats. There is a pull out tray for litter at the bottom (separated by a grate to keep them out of it). This cage is smaller and a little harder to decorate than the CN cage, but it works very well. It is a lot lighter and the smaller door keeps rats from getting out as much when you feed them or other small tasks throughout the day. This cage is not as durable as the CN, but still has lasting power. It does rust faster when washed, but if you dry it thoroughly and use a hair dryer to help the inside dry faster and more completely, you can cut down on the rust a lot. There are some sealers you can get, but they cost a lot, too, so it may not be practical.
Now that you've read the whole article, can YOU tell which of the cages in the header picture are likely suitable for rats and which are not? Bonus points if you can tell WHY the cages that are not suitable are a poor choice.
Last Updated: 7/18/2023 (c) 2021/2022 Squeakin' Pups All rights reserved. Do not copy, share, or distribute without written permission.