FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
General Info on Squeakin' Pups:
Last Updated: 4/17/2021
WHERE ARE YOU LOCATED?
We are located in the 92020 zip code. We do not have an official storefront, though we do have a "workshop" for our Etsy shop portion of our business as of 2021! This is where we will meet adopters for pick ups, but it is not fully set up for much beyond the quick 15 minute pick up visits. There are no rats at the workshop and the workshop is my place to be creative... which means it will likely have projects everywhere in the background - sorry. My creative process is a lot like spatter painting, it can get messy, then I micro-organize other things beyond belief. It is all just part and parcel to what makes me, ME.
DO YOU DELIVER?
We do not "deliver" rats direct to your door, however we may meet out of the normal area (my workshop) if my health permits. Driving is pretty rough on me. Due to COVID, shipping of rats has been suspended, however, in 2021 we are looking into seeing if the travel restrictions may allow for safe travel of our rats once again. The huge delays in flights for 2020 made it very unsafe to ship animals, in my opinion, and I had to discontinue. I feel things are beginning to return to normal and I may be open to resuming around June if and when all masking and social distancing requirements in public places are lifted.
Our article on Shipping will reappear in the Adoption menu if it becomes available again. Our article on Out of Area Appointments will also reappear if that is available for pick ups. Otherwise, all meetings are local to 92020 zip code and transportation of all new babies will be the responsibility of the adopter.
We are located in the 92020 zip code. We do not have an official storefront, though we do have a "workshop" for our Etsy shop portion of our business as of 2021! This is where we will meet adopters for pick ups, but it is not fully set up for much beyond the quick 15 minute pick up visits. There are no rats at the workshop and the workshop is my place to be creative... which means it will likely have projects everywhere in the background - sorry. My creative process is a lot like spatter painting, it can get messy, then I micro-organize other things beyond belief. It is all just part and parcel to what makes me, ME.
DO YOU DELIVER?
We do not "deliver" rats direct to your door, however we may meet out of the normal area (my workshop) if my health permits. Driving is pretty rough on me. Due to COVID, shipping of rats has been suspended, however, in 2021 we are looking into seeing if the travel restrictions may allow for safe travel of our rats once again. The huge delays in flights for 2020 made it very unsafe to ship animals, in my opinion, and I had to discontinue. I feel things are beginning to return to normal and I may be open to resuming around June if and when all masking and social distancing requirements in public places are lifted.
Our article on Shipping will reappear in the Adoption menu if it becomes available again. Our article on Out of Area Appointments will also reappear if that is available for pick ups. Otherwise, all meetings are local to 92020 zip code and transportation of all new babies will be the responsibility of the adopter.
Adoption Questions:
WHO CAN ADOPT A RAT?
Only adults (18+ who live outside their parent’s home) or a child (considered anyone who has parents they live with currently no matter the age) with parental consent and escort on the day of pick-up. I have children of my own and I cannot express how distraught I would be if someone sold them an animal without my permission, therefore I absolutely will not sell to minors either. Parents are free to adopt on behalf of their children, however.
DO YOU HAVE A WAIT LIST?
A "Wait List" usually means that a breeder requires adopters to sign up and then wait for babies to be born. Adopters on the list usually get to come out and select in person once the babies are old enough to go home, and only in the order they appear on that list. I do not adopt out in this way. I do have an "Approved Adopter" list, but it is only for my own information. I track everyone who has adopted in the past, and even those who are banned from adopting as well. You do not have to 'take a number' or wait in line to request rats, however. If you are looking for the greatest edge for getting a first pick, being approved for adoption and joining our newsletter mailing list is really the best way. Some people do not like this way of adopting because it means they may not get to adopt for a while if others are faster at requesting newly available babies. During the normal year, I have plenty of babies for everyone, however. It is only from October-January that adoption can be quite difficult due to the fact that even producing my maximum number of litters I will still have more adopters than babies.
WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT RATS?
Please read this article on pet rat care. It has all the basics of rat care and is organized in a nice way. (That isn’t my website and the views/opinions expressed are not necessarily my own - and all that other disclaimer stuff.)
The most important misconception I want to address specifically here, is that rats are not cage pets, they are pocket pets. The reason they are called a pocket pet is because they are meant to share life with you - like traveling in your pocket - see what you see, do what you do, go where you go. There is no sadder life for a rat than living in a cage all the time. Rats are social, smart, and a responsibility. Because they are social, you should own no less than two at a time (my personal recommendation is three or more for various reasons.)
Just because they have a friend in the cage, that doesn’t mean you do not still have to socialize with them as well. The best pets are the ones that are treated like family. Their intelligence makes them trainable in any number of tricks, but it also means they will become depressed or destructive if they do not have enough opportunities to exercise their minds and bodies. Toys and outside of the cage time are essential to a happy healthy rat. We recommend a minimum of 2 hours outside of their cage per day, every day. If you have less time than this to devote to your new rats, it is best if you wait for life to be less hectic before getting them.
Proper food, bedding, and cleaning of both the rats and cage are essential to a long, healthy life for your rats. The average lifespan of a rat is about 2-3 years, but it can be reduced significantly from illnesses obtained from unsanitary living conditions or poor nutrition. Giving lab blocks or even the most acclaimed rat food on the market is not proper nutrition when given alone. All rats need additional fresh foods in order to maintain proper health.
If you are hoping for a good first pet for a child, but want very little effort and something to sit in an enclosure full time, please do not get a rat. A pet Beta fish would be a much better choice. They are very easy to care for and love to be alone. My personal opinion on when a child may be ready to be a primary owner to a pet rat is no younger than 7 years of age. The age takes into account manual dexterity and physical strength needed to clean the cage and care for the animals. Children from ages 7-14 will likely be able to take on about 50% of the full responsibility of pet rats, the other 50% falling to parents. Children below 7 can still be a primary owner, however they will likely only be able to provide partial socialization and enrichment for the rats, none of the actual "work" part of pet ownership, which will be 100% provided by the parent/guardian. Minors 15+ can likely provide 90% of the care for their pet rats themselves, limited only by monetary and transportation considerations (as they may not have a job or car of their own to take the rats to a vet, should they need it.) I absolutely love when children are involved and pet owners; especially if they earn the money for their new rats themselves. My stance on ages is more of a practicality for parents who have never owned a rat and are wondering if their child may be ready for one.
WHICH RATS ARE AVAILABLE?
We have several pages where we list all of our available rats. The pages are sorted by type and gender. The types are Standard Sized, Dwarf, and Retired rats. You can find links to each page on our Available Now page. In addition to that page, we also have our Upcoming Litters page, in which you can view litters that will be offered for reservation within the next few weeks.
CAN DWARF RATS LIVE WITH STANDARD SIZED RATS?
Yes, but it must be done in a specific way for safety of the Dwarf. It is not a guarantee that the rats will fight or hurt one another as it is with housing male mice together, but the size difference puts the Dwarf at a disadvantage and will make them the loser in altercations if they should happen.
I have a Dwarf best practices information article that can be requested if you are considering having both. Things that come into play are initial starting groups, ages, and genders of the rats involved. There is too much to add here, but I am happy to talk about Dwarf with others!
HOW MANY RATS CAN/SHOULD I ADOPT?
The quick and easy answer to this is “As many as you want!”
There are some guidelines to follow and recommendations we offer on the number of rats. You can find that information in our How Many Rats? guide.
We feel it is important that all new rats have the benefit of being able to fully bond with new owners in their new home before any new rats are introduced. With that in mind, we have the following restrictions on general and repeat adopting:
These rules are our best practices for adoption in all cases, however we are open to discussion on special considerations if you have a unique situation or dynamic. We have found this way works best to ensure the happiness of both our rats and adopters. It is our recommendation that these guidelines are followed whether you are adopting from us or another rattery in the future. Your experience as a rat owner will be much better if you take the time to really get to know each of your rats well one-on-one before bringing home new friends who may change your relationship dynamic. Adding too quickly can have negative outcomes on the rats behavior and health, as well, if they feel over-crowded or “replaced” by the newcomers in your affections. Combining groups can also take several months to accomplish successfully, and trying to shortcut the process can derail it completely.
DO YOU ADOPT TO BREEDERS?
Yes and no. If a breeder would like to adopt from me or collaborate for a line, I am happy to discuss it, however, I currently only adopt to breeders that I know. The rat community can be a catty place at times. I have found that there is an overwhelming majority of wonderful people in it, but the ones who are not so wonderful tend to be louder. I don't like to involve myself in drama or trauma, so I keep my dealings with other adopters strictly to those I feel I have a good rapport with. I feel that if anyone is not willing, or able, to create a good rapport with me, then I don't want to partner in breeding with them. I work very hard, so anyone not up to the hard work of making a friend in me, likely doesn't have the same work ethic in other things. Also, I have a natural distrust for anyone who wants to take on my rats for breeding and cut me out completely. To me, that says there is likely something about their breeding I won't like and I don't want any of my babies to be living there. Breeders I get along well with are friendly, open, communicative, positive, and as much there for their adopters as their rats. Rats cannot live a healthy and happy life unless breeders invest as much in the adopters as the rats. Screening is good, but education and support is better.
A bit of honesty from me, I actually do not feel I am the BEST breeder to adopt from at this time. (*Gasp!* Shock* but yes...) My reasons for this are primarily that my lines only go back, at most, 5-6 years. I highly recommend that anyone wanting to get into breeding build a good rapport with some of the more well-established breeders who have lines of 10+ years and can give them much more detailed health and temperament data than I can. Though I track innumerable things at my rattery, my data is not yet long enough to have a lot of significance for the person wanting to become a serious breeder - especially if you want to show breed. I have plans to actually update my own lines and obtain rats of longer lineages in the future, however, I feel it is my responsibility to first build relationships with the other breeders I respect and would like rats from, first.
I am, personally, happy with my pet breeding for now, though I have my own plans on expanding and being more serious about shows in the future. I definitely know where I rank, though, and I am the first to admit - I am NOT the best breeder out there (not even second best!) Therefore, if you contact me in regards to breeding, I will likely give you all the advice and encouragement I can, but please don't feel slighted if I suggest you ask someone else for rats. It is actually my very best advice for helping you to start off with a great foundation.
HOW MUCH IS THE ADOPTION FEE?
Adoption fees vary by rat and are 100% non-refundable once paid. The highest fees are requested on rats when they are first listed for adoption as babies. The fees are reduced periodically as the rats age and are still without a home. This sliding scale is in place to help all rats find a home with equal ease and to help keep the rattery funded for new babies to be possible.
Repeat adopters often get discounts on rats, and in some cases may be offered to adopt specific rats for free. These perks are offered only to adopters that have a proven track record of taking excellent care of their rats and providing them with the best homes. We also offer discounts to military, teachers, and other persons who provide public services or community service that we feel warrant recognition and reward. Rats obtained as ESAs also receive a discount with a valid doctor's note.
CAN I HAVE PICK-OF-THE-LITTER?
Pick-of-the-Litter (POTL) is something we've offered on and off over the years. It is generally a problematic item because we generally have more adopters than babies, which leads to a lot of unhappy feelings when someone wants to "cut in line" with POTL. We have opted to not have it to simplify things and keep the most people happy and choosing as fair as possible.
HOW DO I ADOPT A RAT?
The full description of how to adopt a rat from us is located on our "Adoption Process" page.
DO I HAVE TO BE ON THE APPROVED ADOPTER LIST TO ADOPT A RAT?
You must be approved for adoption through our forms to adopt, however, we do not always have an ongoing list available to join. There are times when we are barely producing any litters and a list is ineffective, and other times where there may be a dozen litters in a single month, necessitating a list to ensure those waiting longest have priority. This can be confusing for some who have never adopted anywhere before, but it really helps me to help adopters better when I can use a list or not as needed. The follow-ups go much smoother and it is easier to ensure everyone has an equal chance at adopting without overburdening my time, which leads to increased adoption fees and less time for me to help adopters with their questions and concerns. I'm pretty sure no one likes paperwork, so I try to keep it to a minimum for you and myself.
DO YOU ACCEPT RETURNED RATS?
If you cannot keep your rats at any point, and need to rehome them, we will gladly accept them back to our rattery, however, it is preferred that I create a listing for my various social media pages to assist with the rehome direct from you to the new owner. Rats need a stable environment, so the more times they move homes, the more they are likely to develop stress issues, such as increased anti-social and mistrust of their humans. An unstable living environment is very bad for their mental and emotional health. The most successful transitions happen when the rat can go straight from one home that is thinking of their best interests to a new home where they are being welcomed forever to be loved as part of the family. Making the trip back to the rattery is available and safe when the other option is not possible, but it creates one more big change in a short time span for them that can be hard. I work with adopters to help in any way I can, though, and our babies are always welcome to come home to us.
We do NOT offer any refunds on rats, nor will we pay any sort of rehoming fees you may be asking for. We will accept your rats with any cages, toys, supplies, etc. they come with, or just the rats alone. If we are doing the rehoming ourselves, I may request a fee to help pay for the costs of housing and food incurred while they are looking for their new home. I may also offer them with their cage/supplies or without (adopter preference) and in cases where the items are not wanted/needed, sell or utilize the items at the rattery instead. I do not make any guarantees about it, but I use the items to first make the rats more adoptable, and only if they are not needed will I utilize them elsewhere to benefit all our other rats. Finding a home for our little guys is always priority #1.
If we are doing the rehoming, we will not be able to notify you of who adopts your rats, as a way of respecting adopter privacy. However, if you wish, we can pass your name and contact info along to the new parents and it will be up to them as to whether they wish to keep you updated on your rats. Most of our adopters are extremely generous people and I’m sure they will understand your desire for updates on your babies. We cannot force them to update you, however. This is another negative aspect of the rattery finding a new home vs. the current family being able to choose their babies new home.
DO YOU REPLACE OR EXCHANGE RATS?
As stated above, we will always accept back any rats that are unable to be cared for by their owners any longer, however, there is no refund on rats being returned.
If you have reserved a rat(s) from us and change your mind about which one you want at any time BEFORE pick up, there is a loss of any deposits paid on the rats thus far. We will only exchange for a rat that is currently available at the time you are picking up. We do not hold one baby until a new litter is available another week or two or even 10 down the line.
You can see Our Rat Guarantee for more things that are covered for exchange or replacement of rats. We have a pretty comprehensive guarantee that covers everything reasonable and ethical with guidelines on how to make a claim with us if you feel you may have one to make.
Only adults (18+ who live outside their parent’s home) or a child (considered anyone who has parents they live with currently no matter the age) with parental consent and escort on the day of pick-up. I have children of my own and I cannot express how distraught I would be if someone sold them an animal without my permission, therefore I absolutely will not sell to minors either. Parents are free to adopt on behalf of their children, however.
DO YOU HAVE A WAIT LIST?
A "Wait List" usually means that a breeder requires adopters to sign up and then wait for babies to be born. Adopters on the list usually get to come out and select in person once the babies are old enough to go home, and only in the order they appear on that list. I do not adopt out in this way. I do have an "Approved Adopter" list, but it is only for my own information. I track everyone who has adopted in the past, and even those who are banned from adopting as well. You do not have to 'take a number' or wait in line to request rats, however. If you are looking for the greatest edge for getting a first pick, being approved for adoption and joining our newsletter mailing list is really the best way. Some people do not like this way of adopting because it means they may not get to adopt for a while if others are faster at requesting newly available babies. During the normal year, I have plenty of babies for everyone, however. It is only from October-January that adoption can be quite difficult due to the fact that even producing my maximum number of litters I will still have more adopters than babies.
WHAT SHOULD I KNOW ABOUT RATS?
Please read this article on pet rat care. It has all the basics of rat care and is organized in a nice way. (That isn’t my website and the views/opinions expressed are not necessarily my own - and all that other disclaimer stuff.)
The most important misconception I want to address specifically here, is that rats are not cage pets, they are pocket pets. The reason they are called a pocket pet is because they are meant to share life with you - like traveling in your pocket - see what you see, do what you do, go where you go. There is no sadder life for a rat than living in a cage all the time. Rats are social, smart, and a responsibility. Because they are social, you should own no less than two at a time (my personal recommendation is three or more for various reasons.)
Just because they have a friend in the cage, that doesn’t mean you do not still have to socialize with them as well. The best pets are the ones that are treated like family. Their intelligence makes them trainable in any number of tricks, but it also means they will become depressed or destructive if they do not have enough opportunities to exercise their minds and bodies. Toys and outside of the cage time are essential to a happy healthy rat. We recommend a minimum of 2 hours outside of their cage per day, every day. If you have less time than this to devote to your new rats, it is best if you wait for life to be less hectic before getting them.
Proper food, bedding, and cleaning of both the rats and cage are essential to a long, healthy life for your rats. The average lifespan of a rat is about 2-3 years, but it can be reduced significantly from illnesses obtained from unsanitary living conditions or poor nutrition. Giving lab blocks or even the most acclaimed rat food on the market is not proper nutrition when given alone. All rats need additional fresh foods in order to maintain proper health.
If you are hoping for a good first pet for a child, but want very little effort and something to sit in an enclosure full time, please do not get a rat. A pet Beta fish would be a much better choice. They are very easy to care for and love to be alone. My personal opinion on when a child may be ready to be a primary owner to a pet rat is no younger than 7 years of age. The age takes into account manual dexterity and physical strength needed to clean the cage and care for the animals. Children from ages 7-14 will likely be able to take on about 50% of the full responsibility of pet rats, the other 50% falling to parents. Children below 7 can still be a primary owner, however they will likely only be able to provide partial socialization and enrichment for the rats, none of the actual "work" part of pet ownership, which will be 100% provided by the parent/guardian. Minors 15+ can likely provide 90% of the care for their pet rats themselves, limited only by monetary and transportation considerations (as they may not have a job or car of their own to take the rats to a vet, should they need it.) I absolutely love when children are involved and pet owners; especially if they earn the money for their new rats themselves. My stance on ages is more of a practicality for parents who have never owned a rat and are wondering if their child may be ready for one.
WHICH RATS ARE AVAILABLE?
We have several pages where we list all of our available rats. The pages are sorted by type and gender. The types are Standard Sized, Dwarf, and Retired rats. You can find links to each page on our Available Now page. In addition to that page, we also have our Upcoming Litters page, in which you can view litters that will be offered for reservation within the next few weeks.
CAN DWARF RATS LIVE WITH STANDARD SIZED RATS?
Yes, but it must be done in a specific way for safety of the Dwarf. It is not a guarantee that the rats will fight or hurt one another as it is with housing male mice together, but the size difference puts the Dwarf at a disadvantage and will make them the loser in altercations if they should happen.
I have a Dwarf best practices information article that can be requested if you are considering having both. Things that come into play are initial starting groups, ages, and genders of the rats involved. There is too much to add here, but I am happy to talk about Dwarf with others!
HOW MANY RATS CAN/SHOULD I ADOPT?
The quick and easy answer to this is “As many as you want!”
There are some guidelines to follow and recommendations we offer on the number of rats. You can find that information in our How Many Rats? guide.
We feel it is important that all new rats have the benefit of being able to fully bond with new owners in their new home before any new rats are introduced. With that in mind, we have the following restrictions on general and repeat adopting:
- You can adopt up to five (5) rats for your initial adoption with us. All rats must be reserved/adopted and go home within the same calendar month.
- Once you have initially adopted from us, you cannot adopt any more than that total five (5) limit within the first six (6) months from the date you take your first rats home. This will allow you to bond with your rats and them with you.
- When you adopt any additional rats, you can adopt no more than three (3) more in any given calendar month. The new rats must be reserved/adopted on the same day and go home on the same day as one another.
- You must have adequate housing for the additional rats to house them separately from your existing rats for their entire lives, even if you plan on integrating them together with your existing rat group. Not all rats always get along, and you may have to have two groups of rats for good. We do not guarantee that new rats and older rats will hit it off and be BFFs at first, or even 20th attempt at combining the groups. Rats are like people, sometimes they just don't like one another.
- After adopting additional rats, you will again need to wait three (3) months from the date you take home your new rats before being approved for any more. This is to allow time for you and your current rats to bond with the new ones fully before adding additional rats to your family.
These rules are our best practices for adoption in all cases, however we are open to discussion on special considerations if you have a unique situation or dynamic. We have found this way works best to ensure the happiness of both our rats and adopters. It is our recommendation that these guidelines are followed whether you are adopting from us or another rattery in the future. Your experience as a rat owner will be much better if you take the time to really get to know each of your rats well one-on-one before bringing home new friends who may change your relationship dynamic. Adding too quickly can have negative outcomes on the rats behavior and health, as well, if they feel over-crowded or “replaced” by the newcomers in your affections. Combining groups can also take several months to accomplish successfully, and trying to shortcut the process can derail it completely.
DO YOU ADOPT TO BREEDERS?
Yes and no. If a breeder would like to adopt from me or collaborate for a line, I am happy to discuss it, however, I currently only adopt to breeders that I know. The rat community can be a catty place at times. I have found that there is an overwhelming majority of wonderful people in it, but the ones who are not so wonderful tend to be louder. I don't like to involve myself in drama or trauma, so I keep my dealings with other adopters strictly to those I feel I have a good rapport with. I feel that if anyone is not willing, or able, to create a good rapport with me, then I don't want to partner in breeding with them. I work very hard, so anyone not up to the hard work of making a friend in me, likely doesn't have the same work ethic in other things. Also, I have a natural distrust for anyone who wants to take on my rats for breeding and cut me out completely. To me, that says there is likely something about their breeding I won't like and I don't want any of my babies to be living there. Breeders I get along well with are friendly, open, communicative, positive, and as much there for their adopters as their rats. Rats cannot live a healthy and happy life unless breeders invest as much in the adopters as the rats. Screening is good, but education and support is better.
A bit of honesty from me, I actually do not feel I am the BEST breeder to adopt from at this time. (*Gasp!* Shock* but yes...) My reasons for this are primarily that my lines only go back, at most, 5-6 years. I highly recommend that anyone wanting to get into breeding build a good rapport with some of the more well-established breeders who have lines of 10+ years and can give them much more detailed health and temperament data than I can. Though I track innumerable things at my rattery, my data is not yet long enough to have a lot of significance for the person wanting to become a serious breeder - especially if you want to show breed. I have plans to actually update my own lines and obtain rats of longer lineages in the future, however, I feel it is my responsibility to first build relationships with the other breeders I respect and would like rats from, first.
I am, personally, happy with my pet breeding for now, though I have my own plans on expanding and being more serious about shows in the future. I definitely know where I rank, though, and I am the first to admit - I am NOT the best breeder out there (not even second best!) Therefore, if you contact me in regards to breeding, I will likely give you all the advice and encouragement I can, but please don't feel slighted if I suggest you ask someone else for rats. It is actually my very best advice for helping you to start off with a great foundation.
HOW MUCH IS THE ADOPTION FEE?
Adoption fees vary by rat and are 100% non-refundable once paid. The highest fees are requested on rats when they are first listed for adoption as babies. The fees are reduced periodically as the rats age and are still without a home. This sliding scale is in place to help all rats find a home with equal ease and to help keep the rattery funded for new babies to be possible.
Repeat adopters often get discounts on rats, and in some cases may be offered to adopt specific rats for free. These perks are offered only to adopters that have a proven track record of taking excellent care of their rats and providing them with the best homes. We also offer discounts to military, teachers, and other persons who provide public services or community service that we feel warrant recognition and reward. Rats obtained as ESAs also receive a discount with a valid doctor's note.
CAN I HAVE PICK-OF-THE-LITTER?
Pick-of-the-Litter (POTL) is something we've offered on and off over the years. It is generally a problematic item because we generally have more adopters than babies, which leads to a lot of unhappy feelings when someone wants to "cut in line" with POTL. We have opted to not have it to simplify things and keep the most people happy and choosing as fair as possible.
HOW DO I ADOPT A RAT?
The full description of how to adopt a rat from us is located on our "Adoption Process" page.
DO I HAVE TO BE ON THE APPROVED ADOPTER LIST TO ADOPT A RAT?
You must be approved for adoption through our forms to adopt, however, we do not always have an ongoing list available to join. There are times when we are barely producing any litters and a list is ineffective, and other times where there may be a dozen litters in a single month, necessitating a list to ensure those waiting longest have priority. This can be confusing for some who have never adopted anywhere before, but it really helps me to help adopters better when I can use a list or not as needed. The follow-ups go much smoother and it is easier to ensure everyone has an equal chance at adopting without overburdening my time, which leads to increased adoption fees and less time for me to help adopters with their questions and concerns. I'm pretty sure no one likes paperwork, so I try to keep it to a minimum for you and myself.
DO YOU ACCEPT RETURNED RATS?
If you cannot keep your rats at any point, and need to rehome them, we will gladly accept them back to our rattery, however, it is preferred that I create a listing for my various social media pages to assist with the rehome direct from you to the new owner. Rats need a stable environment, so the more times they move homes, the more they are likely to develop stress issues, such as increased anti-social and mistrust of their humans. An unstable living environment is very bad for their mental and emotional health. The most successful transitions happen when the rat can go straight from one home that is thinking of their best interests to a new home where they are being welcomed forever to be loved as part of the family. Making the trip back to the rattery is available and safe when the other option is not possible, but it creates one more big change in a short time span for them that can be hard. I work with adopters to help in any way I can, though, and our babies are always welcome to come home to us.
We do NOT offer any refunds on rats, nor will we pay any sort of rehoming fees you may be asking for. We will accept your rats with any cages, toys, supplies, etc. they come with, or just the rats alone. If we are doing the rehoming ourselves, I may request a fee to help pay for the costs of housing and food incurred while they are looking for their new home. I may also offer them with their cage/supplies or without (adopter preference) and in cases where the items are not wanted/needed, sell or utilize the items at the rattery instead. I do not make any guarantees about it, but I use the items to first make the rats more adoptable, and only if they are not needed will I utilize them elsewhere to benefit all our other rats. Finding a home for our little guys is always priority #1.
If we are doing the rehoming, we will not be able to notify you of who adopts your rats, as a way of respecting adopter privacy. However, if you wish, we can pass your name and contact info along to the new parents and it will be up to them as to whether they wish to keep you updated on your rats. Most of our adopters are extremely generous people and I’m sure they will understand your desire for updates on your babies. We cannot force them to update you, however. This is another negative aspect of the rattery finding a new home vs. the current family being able to choose their babies new home.
DO YOU REPLACE OR EXCHANGE RATS?
As stated above, we will always accept back any rats that are unable to be cared for by their owners any longer, however, there is no refund on rats being returned.
If you have reserved a rat(s) from us and change your mind about which one you want at any time BEFORE pick up, there is a loss of any deposits paid on the rats thus far. We will only exchange for a rat that is currently available at the time you are picking up. We do not hold one baby until a new litter is available another week or two or even 10 down the line.
You can see Our Rat Guarantee for more things that are covered for exchange or replacement of rats. We have a pretty comprehensive guarantee that covers everything reasonable and ethical with guidelines on how to make a claim with us if you feel you may have one to make.
General Rat Info
DO YOUR RATS BITE?
We never place a rat with a risk of biting in any pet home. All efforts are made to acclimate our rats to various types of handling and by multiple persons of multiple ages. Baby rats do tend to mouth or nibble on things, especially when hungry. A very small minority of rats also have a habit of "pulling" on other rats or their humans. These two actions are not aggressive in nature and are part of rat personalities. Nibbling is a way of seeing what the world around them is, especially if they are hungry or something is new. This behavior usually is outgrown, but can sometimes also evolve into grooming of their humans later. The pulling is when a rat gently grabs with the teeth and tries to pull another rat, or a person's finger" towards them (usually into a cage or hide.) This behavior is often a show that your rat wants you to be with them and they are trying to take you somewhere safe to share more time with you.
If your rat appears to have these sorts of habits, and you do not feel they are safe, we are happy to accept them back at the rattery and give you a new rat in exchange. There is a link to a great video on Misunderstood Rat Behaviors on our Helpful Links page if you would like to learn more.
If you have small children, or even older children, it is always recommended that you go over safe and considerate handling of small animals. Rats are fragile creatures and should always be handled with care. If your child is not yet mature enough to treat a rat with the care and respect it deserves, then it would be best to wait a few years before obtaining one. We do not recommend rats for homes with children under the age of 7 as a general guideline. However, some small children are able to be very careful with small animals, while some adults still haven’t found the knack. We absolutely do not discriminate against any family based on the ages of those in the household. We feel that parents are the best judge of when their child is ready to care for or interact with certain animals, as you know your child best.
WHAT CAN I FEED MY RATS?
I created an article on What Can I Feed My Rats? to answer this question. You can read it at that link.
Our recommended basic lab blocks/rat food is Oxbow Adult rat food. Oxbow has several types of food, however, and the brands Mazuri and Teklad are also quite popular with owners and breeders. I do not recommend giving solely the block type foods, as I have tried the different brands and none have ever resulted in the quality of health and overall appearance as giving a more varied diet. Poor coat texture and color are the first noticeable signs that my rats were not getting proper nutrition when on a block only diet. Though some dietary needs are universal to rats, every rat has its own body composition/type and energy level.
Our daily staples include a dry food mix that includes 60% Oxbow Adult Rat food and 40% of a mixture of cereals, whole grains, pastas, nuts, and seeds. The specific items can vary by season and as items are on sale. We supplement their dry food with fresh fruits and vegetables, cooked meats, cooked pasta/rice/beans, scrambled eggs, yogurt, and other healthy, rat friendly, items once a day. These supplemental items also vary by season as items are on sale and also at their freshest. All fresh foods should be washed, we recommend removing all peels, pits, and seeds, cooking all meats and some of the other items as well, and cutting all items into small pieces for easier consumption. An extensive list of rat safe foods can be found on our Helpful Links page.
HOW CAN I GET MY RAT TO LIKE ME?
Spend time with them. The highest quality relationships between rat and adopter are determined by the amount of time that adopters spend with their rats outside of their cages, not by age, gender, color, ear set, size, or any other feature of the rat. Some adopters feel they must wait for their rat to come to them, however with our rats, this is not the case. We highly recommend bringing rats out by picking them up and carrying them away from their cages. Your rat does not need to crawl into or onto your hand for you to do this, and it is not traumatic to them to pick them up before they seem "eager." Due to the way rats acclimate to their environments, new things are often distrusted, but familiar things are highly sought after. To become a familiar and desired thing, you need to show your rat that you are safe and fun.
Any action or activity you want them to do with you should be done daily, even if they don't appear to want to. There are some exceptions to this - things which require a process - but still, some part of the process for more difficult things should be done daily. (Some difficult to acclimate to items are baths, new rats, and learning tricks.) Rats love routines, so try to incorporate those as well.
I plan to make more helpful advice pages for specific issues later. For now, if you do run into a conflict with your rat, you can always message me for help and tips.
We never place a rat with a risk of biting in any pet home. All efforts are made to acclimate our rats to various types of handling and by multiple persons of multiple ages. Baby rats do tend to mouth or nibble on things, especially when hungry. A very small minority of rats also have a habit of "pulling" on other rats or their humans. These two actions are not aggressive in nature and are part of rat personalities. Nibbling is a way of seeing what the world around them is, especially if they are hungry or something is new. This behavior usually is outgrown, but can sometimes also evolve into grooming of their humans later. The pulling is when a rat gently grabs with the teeth and tries to pull another rat, or a person's finger" towards them (usually into a cage or hide.) This behavior is often a show that your rat wants you to be with them and they are trying to take you somewhere safe to share more time with you.
If your rat appears to have these sorts of habits, and you do not feel they are safe, we are happy to accept them back at the rattery and give you a new rat in exchange. There is a link to a great video on Misunderstood Rat Behaviors on our Helpful Links page if you would like to learn more.
If you have small children, or even older children, it is always recommended that you go over safe and considerate handling of small animals. Rats are fragile creatures and should always be handled with care. If your child is not yet mature enough to treat a rat with the care and respect it deserves, then it would be best to wait a few years before obtaining one. We do not recommend rats for homes with children under the age of 7 as a general guideline. However, some small children are able to be very careful with small animals, while some adults still haven’t found the knack. We absolutely do not discriminate against any family based on the ages of those in the household. We feel that parents are the best judge of when their child is ready to care for or interact with certain animals, as you know your child best.
WHAT CAN I FEED MY RATS?
I created an article on What Can I Feed My Rats? to answer this question. You can read it at that link.
Our recommended basic lab blocks/rat food is Oxbow Adult rat food. Oxbow has several types of food, however, and the brands Mazuri and Teklad are also quite popular with owners and breeders. I do not recommend giving solely the block type foods, as I have tried the different brands and none have ever resulted in the quality of health and overall appearance as giving a more varied diet. Poor coat texture and color are the first noticeable signs that my rats were not getting proper nutrition when on a block only diet. Though some dietary needs are universal to rats, every rat has its own body composition/type and energy level.
Our daily staples include a dry food mix that includes 60% Oxbow Adult Rat food and 40% of a mixture of cereals, whole grains, pastas, nuts, and seeds. The specific items can vary by season and as items are on sale. We supplement their dry food with fresh fruits and vegetables, cooked meats, cooked pasta/rice/beans, scrambled eggs, yogurt, and other healthy, rat friendly, items once a day. These supplemental items also vary by season as items are on sale and also at their freshest. All fresh foods should be washed, we recommend removing all peels, pits, and seeds, cooking all meats and some of the other items as well, and cutting all items into small pieces for easier consumption. An extensive list of rat safe foods can be found on our Helpful Links page.
HOW CAN I GET MY RAT TO LIKE ME?
Spend time with them. The highest quality relationships between rat and adopter are determined by the amount of time that adopters spend with their rats outside of their cages, not by age, gender, color, ear set, size, or any other feature of the rat. Some adopters feel they must wait for their rat to come to them, however with our rats, this is not the case. We highly recommend bringing rats out by picking them up and carrying them away from their cages. Your rat does not need to crawl into or onto your hand for you to do this, and it is not traumatic to them to pick them up before they seem "eager." Due to the way rats acclimate to their environments, new things are often distrusted, but familiar things are highly sought after. To become a familiar and desired thing, you need to show your rat that you are safe and fun.
Any action or activity you want them to do with you should be done daily, even if they don't appear to want to. There are some exceptions to this - things which require a process - but still, some part of the process for more difficult things should be done daily. (Some difficult to acclimate to items are baths, new rats, and learning tricks.) Rats love routines, so try to incorporate those as well.
I plan to make more helpful advice pages for specific issues later. For now, if you do run into a conflict with your rat, you can always message me for help and tips.